Cat Rocks opens up just off the Appalachian
Trail in Pawling, New York presenting the hiker with a beautiful sprawling
overview of the valley and countryside below (at the very bottom of this
page is a panoramic photo from Cat Rocks). It's not a jaw-dropping view
with endless panoramas but a gorgeous spot offering relaxation, snooze, or
meditation. Cats Rock is an ideal destination if you want a moderate hike
with a rewarding end spot. It's not too long to be out of reach for new
hikers yet not so short that an avid hiker couldn't appreciate the value of
the amazing volunteer force laying out miles of trail with little fanfare.
You can of course create a 7-mile round trip strenuous hike and make a day
out of it by parking at the Metro North Appalachian Trail train station off
of Route 22 in Pawling and hike in from there. If you live in New York City
or along the Metro North line you don't even need a car to get to the
trail! Running out of Grand Central station, Metro North has created a cool
little wooden station specifically made for the Appalachian Trail. It's a
tiny thing as if from an era long since gone. It's fun just to be dropped
off in seemingly random manner for the sole purpose to hike. You can hop
off the train, cross the tracks, and head south on the Appalachian Trail
all the way to Cat Rocks. Very cool. If you plan things just right, you can
hike off in the morning and make it back in time for the train back. Just
don't delay or you'll miss the train! (It's about a 2-3 mile walk along
busy Rt 22 to Harlem-Valley Wingdale stop just north of here should you
actually do that and trains typically run every hour). Keep in mind that
you need to check Metro North's Harlem Valley trail line for the lastest
times. It's a seasonal schedule and weekends for the Appalachian Trail
stop. It is NOT a regular stop along this commuter line. You can of
course opt for an overnight at a backcountry campsite called Telephone
Pioneer Shelter (with neither telephones or pioneers so not sure where the
name comes from) then back to the train the next day. Telephone Pioneer
Shelter is a short distance, and side trail, to Cats Rock view.
If you can handle a 7-mile round tripper, go for that option from the
train station (a couple of spots to park in a grassy lot but also just
about a hundred feet up Route 22 is a large paved rest area - with no
facilities - so parking is never an issue if the little grassy lot is
crowded or too muddy or icy in winter). The trail from the train station is
flat for about a half mile. The first section can be VERY muddy and mucky
as it passes through a wetlands section but should be fine if there hasn't
been a lot of rain or snow melt (UPDATE 2012: A hiker emailed in to say the
boardwalk has been extended so this mucky section isn't an issue anymore).
In spring and summer the amount of songbirds and migratory birds absolutely
amazes. You'll see birds you've never seen at your backyard feeder and hear
songs you won't recognize...or maybe some that you haven't heard since you
were a kid. Tall grasses and thick bush envelope the trail so it might be
tough to see some of the birds but you'll know they're right next to you. A
nice boardwalk, wooden plank system, allows the hiker to nestle into the
section and also keep feet dry. It's worth stopping in here just to be
still and look or listen for the birds. These birds are masters of
disguise. It's amazing how they can hide feet from your eyes. Patience is
worth harnessing to interrupt your hike pace in order to stop and catch a
view of these unique wild ones. They don't do bird-feeders. (NOTE:
dusk or dawn during peak summer you'll battle mosquitoes - they can be
quite numerous over this short stretch of trail do to all the pools of
water and general soggy conditions).
The initial wetland section, accessed immediately off the Metro North platform,
is unique and much more expansive than most might imagine as they hike along boardwalk.
Stancy DuHamel (Co-chair Harlem Valley AT)
sent in a wonderful upgraded description of the boardwalk along with some links that would allow you
to enjoy this wonderful ecosystem with the people who know it so well.
"The Great Swamp is NYS's third largest freshwater wetlands, 20 miles long and covers over 6000 acres. It's an Audubon Important Bird Area (IBA) and has three public access points on its two rivers: the Swamp River in Wingdale, and the East Branch of the Croton in Patterson and Brewster
http://www.nature.org/ourinitiatives/regions/northamerica/unitedstates/newyork/places-preserves/eastern-great-swamp.xml
http://frogs-ny.org
The AT Boardwalk was finished and dedicated in 2012, and offers an unparalleled experience of the Great Swamp on foot.
www.appalachiantrail.org/home/community/news/2012/07/05/appalachian-trail-boardwalk-opens-in-pawling-ny"
http://www.nynjtc.org/event/swamp-river-AT-bridge
There are photos of both on the Harlem Valley Appalachian Trail Community FB page and the Great Swamp Watershed FB page; taking a canoe trip with FrOGS is a great way to experience the Great Swamp.
(Stancy DuHamel, December 2015)
After the boardwalk section you'll enter a classic hardwood forest with tall, cool, canopy fanning your summer hike or
providing a winter beauty should you venture in during the cold. The forest
hike meanders up at a constant rate but it's never steep. It can be quite
rocky with tree roots so just be careful in certain section. It's a nice
contrast from the open-air wetland section that warms you up. It's quiet in
here with the exception being some of those beautiful birds using the
forest to zip in-and-out down to the wetland. Chipmunks, with their high
pitched alert system, buzz around in fast-forward motion or freeze solid
blending into the forest floor during the warm season. As you walk in, they
chirp out. You're noticed. Nature has an eye on you. Fortunately, you're no
threat but good to see they don't trust any of us and they've got their
wild instincts buzzing perfect. If you've got a good eye for nature you
might spot an owl or hawk perched high in a pine tree or hardwood looking
out over what is likely a nice domain for them.As noted, the winter is a
surreal quiet. Hike all seasons if you can. Perspective is fun.
Emerging from the forest you'll be a bit higher up and ready for the
next section of trail. It's a gorgeous open field hike. These volunteers
and groups do great things. Take a moment to ponder. Rt 22 and Metro North
are just a few hundred yards away. Suburbia isn't around but it's not that
far away. Isn't it a great section of trail here? Don't these people
deserve more than just a bit of credit? It's a cool spot. You'll feel it.
Stop. Notice it before moving on with a smile on your face. Take a moment
to realize a handful of people made this possible. You don't have this if
not for them. Here's to them! This trail brings radical changes and they're
welcome changes. Only in this region can you can snatch a hike like this.
It may not be grand or immense like the West, but the variety in short
distances can't be matched elsewhere. Wetlands, into forest, emerging into
open fields - spring and summer the fields are magical while winter
landscapes chill you if not dressed properly but reward you if you are.
Wildflowers, berries, birds, butterflies, dragon flies, are always on full
display if you can handle the summer steam of the initial wetlands. Waist
high grass, blue skies, fluffy clouds...it's on those days this spot is
postcard perfect...well, much better than a postcard! During fall foliage
the scene is cinematic. You may just shake your head "wow" during October.
You just have to see it for yourself rather than describe it to you. It's
very fortunate that people had the forth sight and will power to put aside
places like this. It's old farmland given back to nature instead of a
developer to plop down cookie cutter suburbia in order to make a quick
profit. You won't see many far off homes during the short open-field
stretch and may as well be in Kansas for the short bit of trail through
here.
Appalachian Trail is worn well and the white hash marks easily spotted
so there's no problem following it along or being overwhelmed by the wild
growth of a field left to its own. In the peak warmth season, the field
grows tall and right up against the trail. If you're wearing shorts in
summer just be aware of that. You'll definitely want to check for ticks
(Lyme Disease) when you finish the open-field sections and when you're back
home. And don't be alarmed if a cow or two suddenly appear upon you half
into this hike. There's still a farm nearby and they wander up to the outer
boundaries of the farm which border the trail section. Cows are cool...so
no worries as far as "when animals attack" but of course trying to jump on
one or bother it is not something you'd want to do and would seem a great
and unnecessary annoyance to them.
As you hike down the far end of the fields you'll soon come upon a road
and near some homes. An amazing, majestic oak tree (pictured left) marks
the spot where the next section of trail begins across the road. From here
it's not too far up to Cats Rock but after an initial flat section that has
some wet spots the trail rises up fairly steady and steep but it's never an
extreme incline. You'll definitely get a workout though so if you're
feeling tired or hungry you may want to turn around and head back to the
car (or train station). Or perhaps recharge a bit under the tree with food
and water to prepare for the hike up to Cat Rocks.
If you're just looking for a moderate hike to Cat Rocks then you can
drive into this spot (bypassing all the wetlands, open fields, and train
station section) and park at the oak tree for the hike up. It's about a
mile up through a dense hardwood forest. It's your standard "just keep
going and you'll get there" hike up if you choose this option. Nothing too
major but can't say it would be easy for a beginner or those who day hike
occasionally. Once in awhile school buses pull up and take some kids up so
that should show that it isn't considered a difficult hike.
A nice distraction near the top
would be Telephone Pioneer Shelter. You can check out the back-country
camping site that so many Appalachian Trail hikers stay at. There's a main
wooden cabin lean-to with several areas to pitch a tent. Not sure why the
name and perhaps not the best to have "telephone" in the name since there
isn't a public phone within miles of any direction. There's a privy
(outhouse) if you need to use the restroom. You're at an elevation of about
900 feet with a couple hundred more to go. Cat Rocks is perched up over the
valley at about 1,000 feet above sea level though the hike from road to
Cat Rocks is only a few hundred feet elevation gain. The shelter is a nice
one so if you're thinking of trying backcountry camping this would be a
great choice (for detailed info on the shelter and trail visit the New York
- New Jersey chapter of Appalachian Trail Mountain Club, http://www.amc-ny.org. They may even have a
group hike heading up to Cats Rock).
After checking out the shelter, head back up beyond the little stream
area and back on to the white blazed Appalachian Trail. The trail heads up
then begins to bend to the right as the trail summits the hill top. As you
crest the hill the trail straightens and flattens out again. If you're
hiking with your head down, deep in thought, or just breathing hard trying
to get to the top, you could walk right by Cat Rocks overview. A heads up
in this area is wise. A small half-loop side-trial juts off to the right of
the Applachian Trail and between some thick bushy patch and into the open
air rocks and magnificent view of Cat Rocks. Just keep an eye out for the
side trail and use common sense - suddenly it comes upon you as rocks and
open air space off the main trail will unfold the view.
It's 180-degree eastern view and just classic New England - even if
you're just over the border in New York. You're looking out over
Wingdale/Pawling to the east into Connecticut (Kent, Sherman, northern New
Milford). It's a beautiful spot to sprawl out and relax. Some large condo
complexes are visible in the extreme right (southern) views but mostly you
can see how this protected land offers up a classic rural scene that
wouldn't have been much different 75 years ago. At the very bottom of this
page is a panoramic view taken on a cloudy day. It's several photos pieced
together but gives you some idea.
Directions:
If you plan to take a long hike, or if you are coming by train only, you
can start at Metro North's Appalachian Trail stop in Pawling, NY. Visit
MTA's
A.T. web page to get times, schedules, info and pricing. For those of
you used to buying tickets at the stations along Metro North there are NO
TICKET MACHINES at the Applachian Trail stop. It's almost a 70 mile train
ride from Grand Central and takes a little less than 2 hours. For those
parking their cars and hiking in, the station is right off of Route 22, and
1/4 mile north of Hurds Corner. It's tricky to see as it's just a little
dirt/grass driveway and the small wooden station is hard to spot from the
road. If the tiny space for parking is filled or too muddy you can park
just up the road in one of the paved rest stops off of Route 22 and walk
the few hundred feet back down to the A.T. train station. If you're curious
(or for future reference) the A.T. crosses Route 22 and heads north towards
Connecticut through the Pawling Nature Reserve and rest of New York state
until it meets up with Connecticut.
If you just prefer a moderate hike and to scramble up for the views at Cat
Rocks then a very short distance south of the Appalachian Trail train
station you'd go west on River Road and follow it until it ends at NY Route
20, also known locally as West Dover Road. Take a right onto West Dover
Raod and drive slowly until you eventually will come upon the massive oak
tree and white hash marks of the Appalachian Trail. Park in the dirt
cut-out off the road at the tree. Parking along the street is probably okay
if there happens to be several cars taking up parking space but be sure to
check for signs as street parking everywhere always seems to change. Across
the road from the tree the Appalachian Trail disappears into the forest and
if you look up and to the right of the mountain you can see the rocky
outcrop of Cats Rock way up high from the road parking. Printable
version of the Cats Rock
page
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